Backyard Breeders and Puppymills

Backyard breeders (BYBs) and puppymills are two of the major reasons there are so many breed-specific rescues. BYBs and puppymills are similar in that neither provides adequate care for their dogs and both are money-driven enterprises. Puppymills, however, operate on a much larger scale and ship out thousands of puppies a year, (e.g. to pet stores) while backyard breeders are small-time dog peddlers who think that because they have a purebred dog, they should breed it. Puppymills, puppybrokers and BYBs advertise on the internet. BYBs tend to advertise in the classified ads or sell their puppies by the roadside or in parking lots. For a list of sites defining puppymills, visit our Links page.

Responsible breeders, on the other hand, take extreme care in the quality of the dogs they produce. Because they put much more vet work, socialization, and quality food into their puppies, these tend to cost more than BYB dogs. This can seem daunting at first, but knowing that you are getting a healthy dog from a high-quality bloodline tends to make the higher price worthwhile. If you cannot spend the money for a pup from a responsible breeder, you may as well adopt one from a shelter or rescue, because a BYB or pet store dog will have just as high a chance of developing health and behavioral problems as one from the shelter. It can be hard to find a responsible breeder because they advertise by word of mouth and by their dogs' reputation. Go to Find a Pet to learn how to locate a responsible breeder.

Traits of Backyard Breeders
Traits of Responsible Breeders
Motive for breeding: "fun", "good for kids", "to make money". Does not screen buyers and seldom refuses to sell, even if buyer is unsuitable. Dedication to producing quality dogs is serious avocation. Has so much invested in dogs that he struggles to break even, not make a profit. Will sell pups only to approved buyers.
Breeds the family pet to any convenient pet of the same breed just to have purebred pups. Has no concern for genetics, bloodlines, or breed improvement. Can explain how planned breedings are used to emphasize specific qualities through linebreeding, outcrossing, or more rarely, inbreeding.
Supports rescue groups; knows his actions inevitably play some part in pet overpopulation and euthanasia (one of every four dogs in shelters is purebred). Even with all his efforts to stem over- population, he knows "cracks" will lead to canine deaths Honestly believes that because he places/sells all his pups, he does not contribute in any way to the needless slaughter of millions of dogs per year in shelters (Does not see his role in his pups making pups and them making more pups and so on)
Though pet may be well loved, it was not x-rayed for hip dysplasia or checked for other problems Has breeding stock x-rayed to check for hip dysplasia and tests for other genetic faults. Can produce certification to prove claims. Common tests: OFA, Penn-HIP, which test hips; CERF, which tests eyes; SAS, which tests the heart; and thyroid screenings
Offers no health guarantee beyond proof of shots, if that. Unqualified to help should problems develop. Lifetime commitment to replace a dog with genetic faults or help owner deal with health problems.
Seller has little knowledge of breed history or of the AKC breed standard. May claim this does not matter for "just pets" Loves the breed and can talk at length about its background, uses, and ideal type
Pups raised in makeshift accommodations, indicating lack of long-term investment Has a serious investment in dog equipment and facilities
May produce AKC papers or "championship pedigrees" as proof of quality. Yet seller does not increase his own knowledge through national, regional, or local breed clubs. Belongs to national, regional, and local dog clubs, indicating a love for the sport of purebred dogs. Exhibits own dogs as an objective test of how his stock measures up.
May be unwilling to show a buyer the entire litter or to introduce the dam of the litter. Cannot or will not compare/critique pups or pup’s ancestors. Shows litter and dam in a sanitary environment. Helps buyer evaluate and choose a pup. Explains criteria for "show prospects" versus "pet picks".
Prices are at the low end of local range, since must move pups quickly. All pups are pet-quality and are relatively cheap, usually $200-$400 Prices at the high end of local range, not cut-rate. Price don't reflect what's invested in the pups. Pet-quality pups generally cost $500-600+ (show-quality costs more)
No concern for the future of individual pups or the breed as a whole. Does not use AKC’s limited registration option or ask for spay/neuter contract to guard against the breeding of sub-standard pups (touts pup's breeding potential). If you cannot keep pup, tells you to take it to a dog pound or to sell it. After purchase, will help you with grooming or training problems. Will always take back a pup you cannot keep rather than see it disposed of inappropriately. Sells pets with spay/neuter agreement and on AKC limited registration.
Breeds dogs at almost any age, and any number of times. Doesn't know/care leaving litter early can cause lifelong temperament problems or staying too long can hurt bonding with humans Breeds only dogs over 2 years old, and a limited number of times. Keeps pups with mom and litter a minimum of 8 weeks to ensure sibling socialization and important lessons from pups' mother
Puppies are sold after birth in the local newspaper, first-come, first-served, no contracts Puppies are sold from waiting list created before breeding even takes place and requires contracts
Puppy mills are overloaded, "warehoused" dogs are not groomed or exercised, don't look healthy or happy Does not own more dogs than he has room, time or money for; Dogs are groomed, exercised, healthy, happy
Does not understand or want to be troubled with any kind of training; just tries to keep puppies quiet and contained until sold Socializes pups by systematically handling them and exposing them to various noises, children and other animals before sending them to new homes
Knows nothing about puppy-testing or matching puppies with buyers; allows buyers to pick the "cutest" one. Tests pups to match their temperaments and drives with buyers' personalities and lifestyles
Does not require all members of the household to meet pup before selling Wants to meet whole family and will not sell if children are abusive

Ask the Breeder

  • Health certificates of parents
  • Names of the parents
  • Would it be possible to see the parents (don't be surprised if the sire is not present. He normally lives elsewhere.)
  • Known health problems inherent of the particular breed of interest
  • Certificates of health (OFA and Penn-HIP, which test hips; CERF, which tests eyes; SAS, which tests the heart; and thyroid screenings )
  • Is the health of the puppy guaranteed for any length of time after the purchase, and if so, how long
  • Spay/Neuter contract (without the spay/neuter certificate from vet, your pet cannot be AKC'd)
  • When can puppy go home (8 weeks should be the minimum. Needs to be with mother and littermates up until that time)
  • What type of after - care help (ie support, advice) is provided once you've taken home the pup
  • Type of return guarantee (a responsible breeder allows you to return the dog anytime within his/her lifetime.)
  • Are they members of the particular Breed Club that you are researching

See for Yourself

  • Do outdoor kennels lead to a climate-controlled area for each adult dog
  • Are the kennels clean
  • Are puppies clean
  • Do the dogs appear healthy and happy
  • How many litters are visible (more than four allows for less attention given to each)
  • Is the puppies' living area close to human living space, where they can be socialized properly
  • How many past puppy buyers is the breeder still in contact with
  • How long after is the breeder still in touch
  • Remember that a good breeder will ask you a lot of questions